by Aina R Ferris, The Native Explorer Co-founder
*Disclaimer: The Native Explorer team discourages foraging in private land not belonging to you, as well as areas protected by law. Poaching in and harming of a protected ecosystem in any way is prohibited. Take caution sampling and ingesting wild edibles and take into account the taster’s food sensitivities; the food ingredients’ possible side effects, including the use of egg, milk, nut, wheat, shellfish, etc.; and if they are pregnant or may become pregnant. The Native Explorer and its team can’t be held liable for harm or injury as a result of gathering, preparation, and ingestion any ingredient in the recipe.
Back in the day, I associated foraging for wild edibles with the concept of survivalist training. Social media has certainly nixed that assumption over time what with TikTok, Instagram, and YouTube shining the spotlight on enthusiasts of various ages and foraging experience. With more individuals open to the idea of learning the artistry of wild edibles identification and preparation, perhaps we native plant lovers can take this opportunity to spread the importance of restoring diversity and the health of our natural ecosystem.
Wild Ones St. Charles invited Missouri Department of Conservation naturalist and biologist, Shelly Colatskie, to be guest speaker at their first monthly gathering for 2023. Colatskie’s topic was on native edibles.* She shared recipes for Shagbark Hickory Bark Syrup, Common Cattail Flour, and Pine Needle Shortbread Cookies, all of which she had tried at home. She likewise noted that the main ingredients for these recipes are best gathered in late fall to early winter.
As temperatures drop and sun exposure is shortened, various flora go dormant or bank their energy reserves for sprouting leaves and producing flowers and fruits. This may well be the benefit of gathering ingredients in the colder months.
Of the three recipes, I’m sharing with you Pine Needle Shortbread Cookies, for I was able to taste a sample baked by Colatskie herself. It was delicious and its aroma was the essence of winter!
Edible Evergreens
Besides Google, guidebooks are a great way to learn about edible evergreens. Colatskie’s notes revealed Blue Spruce, Hemlock, Shortleaf Pine, and Eastern White Pine as edible examples. Be aware, however, that there are people who can be allergic to pine.
While there isn’t a shortage of evergreens in the suburbs and rural Missouri, only one pine species is native to our state: the Shortleaf Pine (Pinus echinata). Although planted statewide, the Ozarks' dry woodlands and glades appear to possess ideal growing conditions for this species. One way to ID this tree is by examining its fascicles a.k.a. needle bundles. Shortleaf Pine will have 2 - 3 fascicles. A common substitute pine for this recipe is Eastern White Pine (Pinus strobus). Its branches bear five fascicles.
Gathering Guide
How can you collect enough pine needles for your recipe without harming the tree? Those who have used this ingredient in the past will recommend cutting no more than 1/4 of the pine branches. In my case, I pruned what I estimated was two cups of needles. (You’ll notice the benefit of doubling the amount of pine needles called for by the recipe once they are finely chopped.) Avoid picking needles off the ground or pine branches hanging close to the ground in case a passing animal sprayed it. Examine needles to ensure they don't have bird droppings or any other debris on them. Expect the sticky sap to cling to your fingers and pruner-- it's easy to rinse off. Pesticide spray may be a concern as well. Hence, the importance of carefully rinsing the pine needles under a tap. If using a colander, I highly recommend lining it with a single layer of paper towel before washing the pine needles (see photo). Pine needles are so thin, they can easily fall out of the colander if you don't use some kind of barrier.
Before washing pine needles, cover the holes of your colander with a single layer of paper towel so they don't fall out.
You'll find a number of pine needle cookie recipes online. Colatskie made hers with parts hazelnut flour, cattail flour, and regular all-purpose flour. She also used a cup of packed brown sugar and a little bit of honey. Other recipes call for maple syrup. The recipe below is my interpretation. It's a derivative of spoonuniversity.com/recipe/add-pine-needles-into-cookie-recipe and Colatskie's version. The main difference: convenience (I used what I already in my pantry and fridge) and tempered sweetness. I found the Spoon University recipe too sweet.
Please take the time to read our disclaimer on foraging and ingesting wild edibles. Some people may be allergic to pine.
Pine Needle Shortbread Cookies
Ingredients
1 c fresh pine needles, washed and finely chopped (use food processor or coffee grinder, if available)
2 sticks butter, softened
1/2 c packed brown sugar
1/2 c granulated sugar (you may switch this to brown sugar)
Zest of 1 or 2 oranges (or zest of 1 orange and 1 lime)
Pinch of salt
2 c regular all-purpose flour
You'll also need
Parchment paper or plastic wrap
Directions
Except for the flour, combine all ingredients in a mixing bowl.
Gradually add flour until dough is formed. You may hand-knead or use hand mixer.
Place dough on parchment paper/plastic wrap and shape into logs at least 2”-3” in diameter. Refrigerate for 10 minutes so dough will be easy to slice into medallions.
Preheat oven to 325-degrees F and line cookie sheet with parchment paper.
Unwrap dough. With a sharp knife, cut dough to 1/2-inch slices. Shape and flatten slices to desired thickness.
Bake for 11 - 12 minutes or until cookie edges turn light brown-- avoid over baking or else the cookies will be hard as biscotti (note: top of cookies won't brown)
Once cooled, store cookies in an airtight container. Pop in a piece of bread (any type will do). It'll keep the cookies moist.
Unbaked cookie dough may be frozen for future use. You may also freeze baked cookies.
Did you know that placing a piece of bread in your container of baked cookies will keep them moist and chewy?
What's a Shortbread Cookie?
It's crumbly and doesn't require the use of baking powder or baking soda. You'll notice, too, that shortbread cookie recipe ingredients are a short list. A traditional Scottish recipe for example, may only call for three parts flour, two parts butter, and one part sugar-- nothing more.** The crumbly texture is due to the high proportion of fat. Our shortbread cookie recipe uses a cup of butter. Recipes for chocolate chip may only require half or 3/4 cup.
Taste of Winter
These shortbread cookies are light, crispy, buttery, and perfect for tea. The orange zest punctuates the aroma of pine. (No, they don't taste like air freshener!) Some bakers have also used the zests of one orange plus one lime combined for this recipe. I used two blood oranges since they were in season.
One other recipe I’m excited to try soon, thanks to Colatskie, is syrup made with the bark of a native Missouri tree: the Shagbark Hickory. During her presentation Q&A, someone from the audience mentioned it having the density of genuine maple syrup, which implies it isn't thick. Another exclaimed it tasted like honey infused with a pleasant smoky aroma. A caveat: there are people who may be allergic to hickory.
Native Plants Experts + Expert Cooks
With so many wild and native ingredients found in the state, it’s a blessing that we have local plant experts who happen to be masters in the kitchen. I recommend that if offered once again, you sign up for the Grow Native! Master Class featuring Master Conservationist, Dr. Nadia Navarrete-Tindall. I attended her webinar where recipes using native persimmon, hairy mountain mint, glade onion flowers, and dittany, among other ingredients, were featured. Her presentation is available through MO Prairie Foundation’s YouTube channel. Every now and then, she may host in-person events at Lincoln University in Jefferson City, MO where guests can sample several of her edible creations. They may also get to tour the Finca EcoFarm, which she helped establish.
There are also books published by the MDC such as “Cooking Wild in Missouri” by Bernadette Dryden and “Missouri’s Wild Mushrooms” by Maxine Stone. One other book, published by Falcon Guides, is Bo Brown’s “Foraging the Ozarks”. I’ve read reviews stating it a great resource. Please note, you need not order these books online. The visitor center at Shaw Nature Reserve and outfitter store, REI have these on their shelves!
Finally, foraging can be your next fantastic foothold on the “wild side”. Just keep in mind that there is a right way to do it. Please go over the regulations below shared by Shelly Colatskie.
Nature is a treasure trove of wild and wonderful living things. Yes, we may partake of its resources, but we should do so responsibly. As you share this cookie recipe with others, perhaps add a note about how the recipient can give back to nature. It could be as simple as reminding them of Wild Ones chapters in St. Charles and St. Louis Counties. The general public is allowed to observe their monthly gatherings, which double as learning opportunities. You may also encourage them to check out in-person activities promoted by the Department of Conservation, the St. Louis Audubon Society, and the Missouri Prairie Foundation. On social media such as Facebook, prompt them to check out native plant communities and pages like The Native Explorer.
I hope you enjoy these cookies and have fun foraging for other wild edibles.* Go wild!
#GoWild #TheNativeExplorer #Naturescaping_Education_Initiative_For_Homewoners #ShortleafPine #PineNeedleCookies
**littleraesbakery.com/2019/02/21/history-shortbread-cookies/
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